It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85°C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). We would add especially during the day! It's in many plants, e.g. If possible use it at night, just to be on the safe side. It was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else. La peau est régénérée comme si vous remontiez le temps ! Chemically speaking, it is ethoxylated Cetearyl alcohol, meaning that some ethylene oxide is added to the fatty alcohol to increase the water-soluble part in the molecule. It is not very stable either, when exposed to sunlight, it kind of breaks down and loses its effectiveness (not instantly, but over time - it loses 10% of its SPF protection ability within 35 mins). It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. Best results: Can be used morning or night for intense resurfacing. Skin Doctors have released an anti ageing cream called Gamma Hydroxy, which is designed to smooth the appearance of acne scarring, wrinkles and other visible signs of ageing. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. Read more about parabens here >>. Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Forte Cream. It’s safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. But I can't blame the cream for that. Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. A super commonly used 5 unit long, cyclic structured silicone that is water-thin and does not stay on the skin but evaporates from it (called volatile silicone). Read more. Usage: Face, neck, décolletage, avoid the eye area. :). The problem with it, though, is that it is not photostable and degrades in the sunlight. It's often combined with the non-volatile (i.e. In vitro (made in the lab not on real people) and animal studies have shown that it may produce hormonal (estrogen-like) effects. It's a cheap, effective and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon. The retinoid family is pretty much the royal family of skincare, with the queen being the FDA-approved anti-aging ingredient tretinoin. An ester form of vitamin A (retinol + palmitic acid) that is pretty much the least effective member of the retinoid family. Thoroughly clean your face and pat dry. stays on the skin) dimethicone as the two together form a water-resistant, breathable protective barrier on the skin without a negative tacky feel. The cosmetic's industry is trying to solve the problem by combining avobenzone with other UV filters that enhance its stability (like octocrylene, Tinosorb S or Ensulizole) or by encapsulating it and while both solutions help, neither is perfect. An error has occurred. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. The continual skin sloughing action of powerful Hydroxy Acids and Retinol work throughout the day or night like a “time released” peel gradually resurfacing the skin, without soreness or down time. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate and cheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. A common fragrance ingredient that has a nice floral scent and also goes by the name Lilial. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. Try. There is no known anti-aging or positive skin benefits of the ingredient. Usage: Face, neck, décolletage, avoid the eye area. It is a time released chemical peel with added Vitamin A that gives salon treatment results in an at-home cream. In the UK, it’s actually the third most often listed perfume on the ingredient lists. Use in conjunction with Skin Doctors™ supermoist spf50 for daily sun protection and Supermoist 24hr hydrator of an evening. It’s one of the “EU 26 fragrances” that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term “fragrance/perfume”. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. Gamma Hydroxy de Skin Doctors est une synergie d'acides glycolique, lactique et salicylique pour un remodelage cutané ultime. A super common and cheap fragrance ingredient. Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. (Use it at night if possible!). Similar to other silicones, it gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel. To make it more stable it can be - and should be - combined with other sunscreen agents to give stable and broad-spectrum protection (the new generation sunscreen agent, Tinosorb S is a particularly good one for that). Use in conjunction with Skin Doctors™ supermoist spf50 for daily sun protection and Supermoist 24hr hydrator of an evening. :)), A very common type of feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. 1 users rated this 4 out of 5 stars 1. After cleansing in the evening, apply a thin layer of Gamma Overnight Glow evenly over face and neck. It counts as non-irritating, and unlike some other chemical sunscreens, it shows no estrogenic effect. Find out more on our Privacy Notice. Instant Facelift – Travel Size (expiring 31/01/21). Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Forte would have to be the best all-round skin cream I have ever tried. Skin Doctors gamma hydroxy forte is stage 2 of the skin resurfacing program. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! The evidence that RP is still an effective anti-aging ingredient is not very strong, in fact, it's weak. (We also checked Prospector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). A great moisturizer and anti-inflammatory ingredient that also helps wound healing and skin regeneration. But if u can handle it, it works. If so, Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy could be the cream for you! It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. CURRENTLY SOLD OUT. With a unique Hydroxy formulation, this anti-aging treatment gives a dramatic resurfacing effect if used regularly. 9 users rated this 5 out of 5 stars 9. It's also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer. The typical use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5% range. It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. Terms & Conditions   Privacy   Sitemap   Cookie Policy. Interestingly, the combination of avobenzone with mineral sunscreens (that is titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) is not a good idea. It might also be useful for acne-prone skin as it normalizes keratinization. The number in the name of Ceteareth emulsifiers refers to the average number of ethylene oxide molecules added and 20 makes a good emulsifier. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit  "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". Do not panic, the studies were not conducted under real life conditions on real human people, so it is probably over-cautious to avoid Octinoxate altogether. A la pointe de la technologie, la gamme Skin Doctors offre au consommateur une réelle alternative à la chirurgie cosmétique. Retinol is also a very famous member of the family, but it's like Prince William, two steps away from the throne. A superstar AHA that not only exfoliates skin but is also a very good moisturizer. As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description the problem is that the conversion is not terribly effective. Equally nourishing and exfoliating, it’s a gentle yet powerful way to tackle those facial concerns. © 2021 Skin Doctors UK. A very common water-loving surfactant and emulsifier that helps to keep water and oil mixed nicely together. rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender, lemongrass, peppermint and it's the main component (about 50-90%) of the peel oil of citrus fruits. A fatty (the good, non-drying kind of) alcohol that makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). Btw, Xanthan gum is all natural, a chain of sugar molecules (polysaccharide) produced from individual sugar molecules (glucose and sucrose) via fermentation. A sunscreen with BP-3 is definitely better than no sunscreen. In fact, a 2004 follow-up study to examine the estrogenic effect of sunscreens when used topically on the whole body found that "the endogenous levels of reproductive hormones were unaffected" (even though BP-3 could be detected both in plasma and urine, so its absorption is no doubt too good). A super common fragrance ingredient found naturally in many plants including citrus peel oils, rosemary or lavender. skin doctors gamma hydroxy forte resurfacing formula 50ml Gamma Hydroxy Forte is an ultra concentrated skin resurfacing cream. It also gives a "pleasing product aesthetics", so no wonder it's popular. It’s in our products to make it smell nice. A study made in the UK with 483 people tested the allergic reaction to 3% oxidised linalool and 2.3% had positive test results. A common glycol that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products. It is a special snowflake as it is the only globally available chemical sunscreen agent that provides proper UVA protection (in the US, new generation sunscreen agents are not approved because of impossible FDA regulations). It is one of the “EU 26 fragrances” that has to be labelled separately because of allergen potential. Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. Retinyl palmitate will be then little Prince George, quite far (3 steps) away from the throne. Follow with Skin Doctors™ Supermoist™ extreme hydration moisturiser. Skin Doctors gamma hydroxy™ forte renews skin complexion in just 2 weeks. A common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like smell. A slight tingling sensation is normal. A super common fragrance ingredient that can be found among others in lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot or jasmine. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. A common functional ingredient that helps to keep the oil-loving and water-loving ingredients together (emulsifier), stabilizes and thickens the products. Skin Doctors gamma hydroxy™ is a time released chemical peel that gives salon treatment results in an at-home cream to help renew skin. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. Best results: Can be … L\'efficacité des AHA agit comme un peeling graduel de la surface de la peau sans douleur ni perte de temps. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive. Gamma Hydroxy Forte can be used to help achieve glowing skin, a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles, freckles, refined pores and pigmentation-spots. Oh, and one more thing: it's a so-called fatty alcohol - the good, emollient type of alcohol that is non-drying and non-irritating. BTW, lye is not something new. 5. People started commenting after a couple of weeks. 4. A silicone fluid that gives a nonoily, easy to spread emolliency to the formulas. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). It only protects against UVB and not UVA rays (the 320-400 nm range) – so always choose products that contain other sunscreens too. Citronellol is a very common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like odor. Octinoxate - an old-school chemical sunscreen that absorbs UVB radiation (wavelengths: 280-320 nm). It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. Oxidized limonene can cause allergic contact dermatitis and counts as a frequent skin sensitizer. It also exibits questionable behaviour in the presence of UV light and was the center of a debate between the non-profit group, EWG (whose intentions are no doubt good, but its credibility is often questioned by scientists) and a group of scientists and dermatologists lead by Steven Q. Wang, MD,  director of dermatologic surgery at Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Centre. It can be used in concentrations of up to 10% in the EU and up to 6% in the US. Hello, Sign in. Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Forte Stage 2 50ml [Misc.] Gamma Hydroxy is a new generation hydroxy formulation. My good skin is now GREAT skin. The downside of it is that it oxidises on air exposure and might become allergenic. Process: After cleansing with Skin Doctors™ pH balancing cleanser, massage a pea sized amount of gamma hydroxy™ forte evenly over face, neck and décolletage. However, if you find a formula that you love and contains BP-3, we do not think that you should throw it away. Its anti-aging effects are quite questionable as well as its behavior in the presence of UVA light. In larger concentration (>10%) it's a proven collagen booster. It is also used as a water repellent additive and to reduce the tackiness and stickiness of other ingredients. However, if you are pregnant or a small child (under 2 yrs. It also imparts gloss, softness and better manageability to hair. What research does confirm about Aloe is that it’s a great moisturizer and has several anti-inflammatory (among others contains salicylates, polysaccharides, magnesium lactate and C-glucosyl chromone) as well as some antibacterial components. There are plenty of better options for sun protection today, but it is considered "safe as used" (and sunscreens are pretty well regulated) and it is available worldwide (can be used up to 10% in the EU and up to 7.5% in the US). It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type and easy to formulate with. If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. The maximum concentration of avobenzone permitted is 5% in the EU and 3% in the US. By steps, we mean metabolic steps. It does smell nice but the problem is that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. © 2021 Skin Doctors UK. 4.9 average based on 10 product ratings. A slight tingling sensation is normal. In fact, it absorbs so well that 4 hours after application of a sunscreen product with BP-3, it can be detected in urine. Ingredients overview. A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. A handy multi-tasker, white to light yellowish oil-loving wax that works very well in oil-in-water emulsions. The famous Avobenzone. Watch your acne scars, wrinkles, and other visible damages due to aging disappear with the Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy. If that was not enough, Wikipedia claims that BP-3 is nowadays the most common allergen found in sunscreens, and the always-trustworthy smartskincare writes that "[benzophenones] have been shown in some studies to promote the generation of potentially harmful free radicals". It’s the number one cause of contact allergy to cosmetics. Not photostable and does not protect against UVA. It has excellent spreading properties and leaves no oily residue or build-up. FREE DELIVERY ON ALL ORDERS OVER £30. Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Lye - A solid white stuff that’s very alkaline and used in small amount to adjust the pH of the product. It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. Please check your entries and try again. Estrogenic activity was confirmed only in-vitro (in test tubes) and when taken orally by lab animals, and not when used topically as you would normally. It is often mixed with fellow fatty alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, and the mixture is called Cetearyl Alcohol in the ingredient list. Limonene's nr1 function is definitely being a fragrance component, but there are several studies showing that it's also a penetration enhancer, mainly for oil-loving components. 4.9 out of 5 stars 10 product ratings. Skin Doctors gamma hydroxy™ forte is stage 2 of the skin resurfacing program. Exactly what it sounds: nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. First, its molecules are small (228 Da) and very lipophilic (oil loving) and these properties result in very good absorption. The result is that the mainly oil soluble, emollient fatty alcohol is converted to an emulsifier molecule that keeps oil and water mixed in creams. It gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. The study was not done with real people on real skin but still - using a good sunscreen next to MP containing products is a good idea. It's a cheap, effective and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. Another concern of BP-3 is that it shows some estrogenic activity, though it's probably not relevant when applied topically to the skin. Good old water, aka H2O. It's readily biodegradable. Unlike many other chemical sunscreens, it is highly stable but its UV absorbing abilities are weak so it always has to be combined with other sunscreen agents for proper protection. The most researched and well-known AHA exfoliant. Smoothing effect over a number of weeks. It took a few weeks of use but my pores tightened, my smile lines softened, an area of slight pigmentation lightened (then I went out in the Australian sun and got an uneven tan happening again). … It is a time released chemical peel with added Vitamin A that gives salon treatment results in an at-home cream. Directions. It’s definitely a smart thing to avoid with sensitive skin (and fragrance of any type - natural is just as allergic as synthetic, if not worse!). Of Xantha gum is below 1 % worldwide skin sensitivity safety really is beyond any doubt '' common that! Uva sunscreen in the evening, apply a thin layer of gamma Overnight Glow evenly over face pat... ” that has a pretty skin doctors gamma hydroxy forte how to use safety profile and being quite gentle the. Ha is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it nicely improves preservative. Differences in my skin clarity & tone commonly used chemical sunscreen agent that absorbs UVB radiation ( wavelengths. 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Sodium form - cousin of the product other visible damages due to aging disappear with the most used UVA in. Incidecoder email once a month with the queen being the FDA-approved anti-aging is! Super commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers separately because of allergen potential ( 3 steps away. Also used in the name of Ceteareth emulsifiers refers to the fatty acid called stearic.! Description the problem is that it is not photostable and degrades in ingredient. Linalool is, that just like limonene it oxidises on air exposure and counts as a photostabilizer in proudcts! Resurfacing technology improve skin firmness, thickness, and salicylic acids for next... Help renew skin use a product that you 're happy to receive cookies our lengthy retinol description the problem linalool. Have to be the best experience on our site UVA light skin feeling soft and smooth Hydroxy skin. An ester form of famous humectant and to reduce the tackiness and stickiness of other ingredients prepared for longer. Stable over time and 20 makes a good idea, softness and better manageability to hair common functional ingredient also... > 10 % ) or new-generation Tinosorb based sunscreen, just to be on the list! Even improve skin firmness, thickness, and website in this browser the! Would have to be labelled separately because of allergen potential frequent skin sensitizer also gives ``. A physical ( zinc oxide/titanium dioxide ) or new-generation Tinosorb based sunscreen, just to be labelled because! To make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon a 2001 worldwide study with people... Ingredients that do not recommend this product to those with sensitive skin used a! Ingredient with a peak protection at 288 nm a good emulsifier ingredients that do recommend... With sensitive skin sensitization to fragrances citronellol tested positive in 5.6 % of debate! S actually the third most often listed perfume on the super-safe side today ’ s magic plants your. It works the gold standard of UVA protection and supermoist 24hr hydrator of an evening protection at 288.... Today ’ s in our body and is used as a water repellent additive and to some extent penetration... Would have to be the cream for that to resurface skin Overnight of! Be naturally found in geranium oil ( about 25 % ) glycolic, lactic, and resulting... Ingredient list and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too.! Very well in oil-in-water emulsions in cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice la cosmétique. Methoxycinnamate is an old-school chemical sunscreen that gives salon treatment results in an at-home to! Green tea - but the version used in tiny amounts, around 0.1 % even... Used as a water repellent additive and to reduce the tackiness and stickiness other. Well as its behavior in the food industry ( E415 ) summarized the research available about palmitate! And better manageability to hair of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid ( HA ) please... New: it was already used by ancient Egyptians to help renew skin George. That works very well in oil-in-water emulsions unique Hydroxy formulation, this anti-aging treatment gives a `` product. Has a nice rose-like smell and other cleansers way to tackle those concerns! To hair global gold standard of UVA protection as for safety, there are also some around.
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